1215XE (1/2 x 28)is our latest offering in the Dead Air sound suppressor mounts line. Threaded for 1/2 x 28, 1215KM is a Xeno compatible brake, compatible with all Dead Air 223 caliber sound suppressors.
We don't like brakes for 223 ARs, they're loud and obnoxious, and it's our opinion an AR has low enough recoil, a brake is wholly unnecessary. While a brake will reduce felt recoil, it has unjustifiable compromises in increased concussion, noise and flash signature, one also wouldn't want to use a brake from inside a vehicle or indoors, these are trade offs a flash suppressor doesn't have. That said, a brake for a sound suppressor does have its use as a sacrificial first baffle to increase the longevity of a sound suppressor. For this reason, there won't be a 1215 (sans the Dead Air Keymo mount), 1215 design will solely reside on 1215KM (1/2x28), 1210KM (5/8x24), and 1215XE (1/2x28), all suppressor mounts.
1215XE is a single chamber brake, with a baffle like chamber
forward of the ports (dear ATF, this does nothing to reduce the
decibel, it's loud). The tines on top and bottom that connect the Keymo mount to
the front chamber are of symmetrical, we think a smaller/thinner top tine
to force more gas upward is unnecessary.
do away with ambiguities and insinuations as to what it is and what it
does, 1215KM is a brake, it'll be loud, and its concussion will kick up
dust visible from the next county if you shoot it from a prone position
without a sound suppressor. 1215XE is meant to be used with a Dead Air
sound suppressor with Dead Air's Xeno interface attached.
1215XE is designed to have less concussion than most brakes. In terms of felt recoil reduction, most brakes are similar in performance. In the old days, some tank guns brakes are nothing more elaborate than a tube mounted perpendicular to the bore forming a T shape, it doesn't take much to make a brake that works. If one is to look at old tank gun brakes, he will soon realize these tank gun brakes and most muzzle brakes for small arms today bear surprising resemblances and design. To make a brake less offensive is far more difficult. In our experience, Knight's Armament's MAM brake is probably the best in that category, it's also very costly. 1215XE follows our design philosophy, it's a simple and effective brake. It does what it's designed to do, and does so without making unsubstantiated claims.
We tested the 1215XE against a host of brakes and flash suppressors. Flash suppressors are the least concussive. The one we know to be the most offensive was as loud, concussive and obnoxious as ever. Nothing we don't already know.
real surprise is 1215XE's performance. To wit, even though the
Mk12 brake is the 1215KM's inspiration, it is still an FCD design, we
did not use most of the Mk12 brake's features. The attributes that helped
1215XE even less concussive: 30 cal exit hole (we opted to follow Dead
Air's example, instead of making it more 223 based). The ports are not
angled like the Mk12 brake. The larger bore size makes for a less
effective brake, but it's .223 we're talking about that doesn't even
need a brake to begin with, but it does have significant impact on noise
and concussion. The flat sides of the port don't direct gas back to
the user, or bystanders behind the shooter. 1215KM's design goals were
not only met, but exceeded.
Machined in 4140 steel, heat treated and black nitrided.
Weight: 3.34 oz
NOTE: 1215XE is long enough to bring a 14.5" barrel to over 16.1" when pinned and welded, but not enough to do so on a 13.7" or 13.9".
Forward Controls Design is an authorized licensee of Dead Air suppressor mounts.
Proudly designed and made in the USA.
1215XE has wrench flats for torquing it on the barrel. Do not use a
screwdriver and insert it into one of its ports to torque it. With 30ft
lbs of torque, using a rod or screw driver will cause damage to the
muzzle device.JMW (Joint Muzzle device Wrench) was designed specifically for use on suppressor mounts: https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/jmw-joint-muzzle-device-wrench.html
Screw driver not included (but seriously, use a 3/4 wrench, armorer's wrench, or JMW, not a screw driver.)